Chandler to El Paso to Austin
July 4, 2022 - Reading time: 6 minutes
We split the drive back to Austin over two days with a quick one night stay in El Paso. En route to Texas we passed through Tuscon, AZ and southwest New Mexico via I-10, a stretch of interstate I had not yet traveled. Unless you take an exit to a side road, there are no pull outs on interstates to photograph the vistas. But that doesn't mean that we didn't appreciate the view all the same. I have complained about I-10 between Houston and New Orleans, with its narrow lanes and numerous over-water bridges, seemingly always under construction, offering little to no shoulder among the heavy traffic of cars and semi-trucks; however, I fully admit that I-10 between Tucson and central Texas is as stunning as it is easy to drive. Well, unless you count the dust storms (more on that in a moment).
First, did you know there is a Saguaro National Park near Tucson, Arizona? Neither did I. We saw a few of these spectacular cacti dotting the landscape between Phoenix and Tucson. I had seen photos so I knew they were tall, but man, they are a sight to behold in person. I regret not capturing a photograph. Also, the exit sign for the national park was upon us as we whizzed by at 75 miles per hour before I even knew there was a national park. I had hoped we might see more after that, but it was not in the cards. Something to add to the top of my new bucket list.
The landscape for most of our drive on I-10 was flat desert, with some white sand areas near Las Cruces, NM, all of it surrounded by hills or mesas in the distance. Stunning. Much of it reminded me of the open sky plains of rural Montana, but with much less grass, and mesas replacing the mountains. We could see 360 degree views for miles on a road that stretched out like a straight ribbon. This made for easy driving and a posted legal of speed limit of 80! In the late afternoon as we neared El Paso, we could see rainstorms in patchy cloudbursts between areas of sunshine. It was beautiful. We also saw signs put up by the department of transportation to beware of dust storms, along with instructions on what to do if one occurs.
With the rain systems all about us on the desert, we could see dust devils here and there, and could feel the wind outside blowing against the SUV. Yet, for the longest time we simply drove without the rain landing on top of us. And then, the wind picked up severely. Tumbleweeds began skirting across the road and up arose the dust. No rain. Just dust. Let me tell ya, I don't care to do that again. Visibility dropped in an instant. Thank God for those advisory signs because we did just as they directed. We pulled off on the shoulder, turned on the lights, put the car in park and waited it out. I have driven in sheets of rain and snow before, but never just sand. The sound of it hitting the car is not pleasant. It only lasted for a maybe 15 seconds, but in that time we became believers in what it must be like for the people who live and drive in that part of the country on a routine basis.
Pulling safely back on the road, with relief that we could see again, Preston and I reached across the middle console of the car and gave each other a high five. Folks may like to say "Don't Mess with Texas," but those dust storms near the Arizona/New Mexico border are not playing either.
We arrived at the hotel in El Paso near dusk, with a thunderstorm approaching. Cloud to ground lightning flashed in the sky and when we pulled into the Holiday Inn Express parking lot even the hotel sign was flickering. We laughed (maybe a bit uneasily) because despite being a newer property, the scene was like something from a horror film.
The beds were comfy. Ghosts never appeared and we ate a quick hotel buffet breakfast before setting out again the next morning. Back to I-10. A few miles along, part of the interstate was closed. Detour time. It turned out to be no big deal, a short stint on a frontage road with very little traffic at that hour on a Sunday morning. But we did notice something unexpected: back on I-10, there is a small section in El Paso that runs parallel to an equally populated area of Mexico. The border wall is prominently visible from the passenger side heading south. So are the blocky style, albeit colorful, tiny apartment housing units, stacked offset from each other, laundry strewn over the balconies and across makeshift clotheslines. It was surreal to be driving in America, but looking at an outskirt city suburb in Chihuahua, Mexico.
From El Paso to central Texas we had an uneventful interstate drive with more open desert, more mesas, but no more rain or dust. There was very little traffic or construction. About 2 hours from Austin, we left I-10 for Texas highway 290. We encountered sleepy little towns and sprawling ranches along the way. Then about 50 miles outside of Austin, we reached hill country which is also aptly known as the wine country. You could swing a dead cat and hit a vineyard. There are over 100 in the area and no, that is not a typo. Signs for wine tastings abound. The grape vines are green and lush in row after row after row. And some of them have the most tempting names - Blue Lotus, Hawk Shadow, Sister Creek. But my favorite, my absolute most favorite was the sign pointing to a vineyard called Fat Ass Ranch and Winery. (Sorry grandmas - it had to be typed).
And just like that, there are now TWO items on my newly minted bucket list: Saguaro cactuses and Fat Ass Wine. Also, I just made Christmas shopping super easy for that son of mine, and he won't have to go much farther than his own backyard. Cheers!
Big Sur, CA and Chandler, AZ
June 27, 2022 - Reading time: 13 minutes
On the morning we left Carmel, the fog had returned with a vengeance. We departed the hotel at 6:15 still determined to travel Big Sur Highway One with fingers crossed that at least SOME of the cliff side ocean vistas would be visible from the various pull off points. Between Monterey and San Simeon, it’s ninety curvy miles and in that blanket of fog we navigated each one with care. Even in the best of weather it takes several hours to complete, but with it’s ranking as one of the best scenic drives in the world, we kept the faith.
Most spots were too foggy to see very much. And while that was disappointing, there were scant other vehicles at that early hour and in those driving conditions. So we took our time. Oh, and I successfully avoided my first deer: a young buck with fuzzy antlers who dashed across the road, thankfully allowing me time to brake! Happily, the further south we ventured, the more we encountered patches of sunshine. It was fascinating to view the distinct demarcation line between fog and clear skies in several places just beyond the shoreline. The rocky coastline is so beautiful. And we were very lucky to find great weather at San Simeon where dozens of elephant seals were lazing about or enjoying a mutual neck rub on the sunny, sandy beach. These creatures make the most unique sound, like the lowest notes of a digeridoo being pushed through a large metal pipe that echoes. What a wild sight to witness and one that I’ll never forget. Preston took tons of photos, thus we’ve picked the best among them.
Our destination of Chandler, AZ (just south of Phoenix) was still 10 hours ahead of us. We knew it would be the longest road day of the trip, so made the most of it. We splurged on McDonalds milkshakes at one of our gas stops. We took turns playing music and discussing bands, movies, books and games. We stretched our legs and snapped photos at a roadside pull out in Lake Cachuma, CA where we happened upon a gorgeous recreational valley area that we never knew existed. The Los Padres National Forest is a gem, y’all.
And yet, after a lovely long drive, it was wonderful to arrive at the Crowne Plaza Hotel & Resort in Chandler. The property was outstanding. I had booked it months ago based on great online reviews, a good price point and the photos of the pool (anticipating a full day of recovery would be in order before attempting another long drive). What I did not expect was just how much Preston and I would fall in love with the overall location. Downtown Chandler is charming, striking the right combination of walkability, landscaping, interesting boutique shops and dining, and a hip, solid vibe. When we weren't relaxing at the hotel, me reading by the pool and he mining through photo shots, we were checking out the nearby scene downtown.
If you are ever in the area, these local spots feature a delicious selection with great service:
Cheba Hut - We grabbed lunch there before I camped out at the pool for the afternoon. Their specialty is toasted subs, but I opted to get the ham and turkey combo as a salad with their homemade Italian dressing. It was perfect for a hot summer day.
SanTan Brewing - This place was hopping for dinner! We sat outside at dusk, but the Arizona temps are cleverly managed by misters on the patio of most establishments, making for a really nice atmosphere. Preston and I split a quesadilla filled with smoked carnitas and tried their signature seasonal brew made with pineapples. Both were truly tasty. But, what grabbed our attention on the menu just moments after we sat was the dessert specialty for the evening - a pineapple white chocolate blondie served warm from the oven beneath a generous topping of banana gelato, toasted coconut shavings, dried pineapple and whipped cream. Needless to say we saved room and it did not disappoint. I LOVE fresh pineapple, so this place was a treasure to find. The entire meal knocked it out of the park.
The Tipsy Egg - The morning of our departure, we filled up on Saturday brunch before hitting the road to El Paso. Another very popular place with the locals, seats were available at the bar, so our little party of two cozied right up for a colorful cocktail and perused the menu. Everything sounded fresh and tasty, which made it hard to choose! I finally decided on the goat grits (Yes! GRITS! In Arizona of all places!!) and this dish was a yummy mix of bacon parsley grits beneath eggs scrambled with feta and spinach. The bartender and the other folks sitting near us were a jovial, friendly bunch and we left Chandler, AZ that morning with happy stomachs and happy smiles.
Our little 36 hour respite in Chandler allowed me time to sit and digest (literally and figuratively) all that I had seen and done since the start of this journey. It gave me time to just soak in the feeling of knowing that life is a blessing. It was a good reminder that slow days, coming and going at a leisurely pace when the mood strikes, are just as much of a gift as the busy ones filled with plans and reservations. I need to remember that.
Carmel-by-the-Sea/Monterey Bay
June 26, 2022 - Reading time: 21 minutes
The drive from Oakhurst to Carmel was a short 3.5 hours. Our destination was a little boutique hotel called The Normandy Inn, just a few blocks from the beach for easy walking distance. Those who know me well, also know the ocean is my jam. I have had a love affair with the sea since the age of five when my dad stood me up on a second story deck bench at my great uncle's Edisto Beach house, pointed over my shoulder and informed me that the great expanse of wavy blue liquid on the other side of Palmetto Boulevard was called "the ocean." I took marine biology courses in high school and college. I've spent countless hours relaxing near the Atlantic on single day getaways and family vacations. I've seen the Gulf of Mexico several times and even spent a glorious week in Italy on the Mediterranean. But...until the day we drove to Carmel, I had never laid eyes on the Pacific, the granddaddy of all oceans. It had always been a dream of mine. A dream that was about to come true. As California Highway 156 merged onto Coastal Highway One, the road curved to the right just before the city of Marina and the magnificent shoreline came into view. I could hardly contain my excitement to focus on driving! I was instantly struck by the aquamarine color of the water. So different than the silty brown of the Atlantic.
Fast forward 15 minutes and we were parked at the hotel. We unloaded the luggage as quickly as possible, threw on sandals and hit the sidewalk! I couldn't stop smiling. My first impressions: 1) The sand and the water are COLD! 2) The waves were not as huge and curling (not on that particular beach) as I had imagined, but they were still big enough for the surfers in wetsuits.
3) Kelp, in deep green, long, leafy strands, washed up in patches just as Spartina does back east. 4) The Pebble Beach Golf Course is plainly visible on the right-hand edge of the Carmel-by-the-Sea cove. I had noticed it on Google Maps, but didn't realize just how easy it would be to see the course from the beach and spot the golfers. 5) I expected the cliffside edges, but didn't imagine how tall the sand dunes were as well. It was a bit of a hike down those soft, sandy dunes to the beach below and then afterwards, climbing back up, foot over foot into sinking sand, a feat best tackled wearing no shoes to gain the best footing. In short, it was a workout. An exhilarating workout. I was so pumped up the entire time.
After our beach walk, Preston and I grabbed showers and sought out a place for dinner. We found an authentic Greek restaurant two blocks away, The Dametra Cafe, and took an 8:00 pm reservation, the earliest they had available. I love Mediterranean cuisine and this night afforded me a chance to enjoy old favorites (hummus, tzatziki, warm pita, infused olive oil) and discover some new ones (spanakopita and baba ghanoush), with the appetizer sampler we ordered to share. This was followed by absolutely THE BEST Greek salad of my life, topped with melt in your mouth Gyros meat. The atmosphere matched the lively flavors. A guitar player walked among the tables, strumming upbeat traditional music and serenading with such exuberance that folks couldn't help but clap, laugh, and sing along. By the time we wrapped up this feast, only the faintest vestiges of purple-pink were left above the horizon of the sea when we exited the restaurant. The colors were diffuse, like a watercolor masterfully painted in the sky. I was a little disappointed that we had missed the full sunset during dinner, but I knew we had one more evening yet to go, so I didn't worry about it too much. Instead, we made the most of the darkness and carried two of the portable chairs we had packed down to the shore to admire the star-filled night on this other edge of America. We chatted for a bit allowing darkness to descend. Then we sat in quiet contemplation, scanning the layers of diamond lights spread out above us with the moon having set much earlier and the sound of mighty Pacific waves crashing just yards away. Suddenly, in unison we shouted, "A shooting star!" It was a fitting end to a fabulous day of firsts and a sublimely relaxing way to cap off a two week coast to coast journey.
Now, I have heard magnificent things about the nearby Monterey Bay Aquarium from so many people and I have no doubt that it is as top-notch as they come. But to be honest, I didn't want to view the wonders of the sea from behind the glass - I wanted to be IN it! So, we arose the next morning in great anticipation of what we had dubbed, "Whale Watching Wednesday." Oh, what a day! After researching several options, we reserved our places months in advance with Sanctuary Cruises aboard a small chartered boat and spent an amazing 3.5 hours with eight other passengers and two crew members (Captain Joey and Erika, a marine naturalist) in search of wildlife in the Monterey Bay. We didn’t have to look for long. We spotted two otters and a sea lion before even leaving the marina! Once in the open waters, the captain learned of a whale sighting 4 miles offshore, so off we went. We took turns sitting on the stern (in the back where the boat feels more stable) and on the bow up front to get the full effect of bouncing across the choppy waves with occasional sea sprays right to the face! What a deal - a boat ride and a cold shower! Still heading to the whale coordinates, the captain idled the engines after spotting a sea lion dining alone in the open water with an impressively large codfish in his mouth. Erika described how sea lions often like to "mad dog" their food after catching it, and sure enough, as if on cue, he began shaking his head vigorously side to side while keeping the fish clenched in his jaws. He was playing with his lunch and loving every second of it! It was hilarious.
Traveling further out, I spied two distinct spouts up ahead. The excitement in my soul was indescribable. It was a mother and calf humpback pair, actively feeding. At times the calf was nursing. We watched for over an hour as they surfaced and rolled and dived (for several minutes at times) and resurfaced, occasionally on the other side of the boat. Preston pointed his camera with each appearance. Though they never completely breached the water (a rare event), it was incredible to behold these beautiful, sentient creatures. Researchers continue to learn more about humpback whales with each passing year, recently compiling anecdotal evidence suggesting they have the capacity for altruism, as they have been known to attempt (and succeed at) rescuing other sea mammals from killer whale attacks, with no apparent benefit to the humpback. How cool is that? I was also amused by the number of birds flocking, circling overhead and closely tracking the whales in search of a lunch scraps. Seagulls are such opportunists.
Eventually leaving momma and baby to dine in peace, we headed toward another whale sighting farther down the coast. Before arriving, once again the boat slowed to a stop as a large lime green swath of water appeared portside. Like a chemical spill, the blue-water-turned-to-green simply glowed in the broad daylight as we idled into an enormous colony of moon jellies. Even the naturalist was amazed at this event, exclaiming that she had never before seen this many congregated in one area. It was surreal. Like a scene from the Avatar movie. No joke. Preston snapped photos, but the camera doesn't do justice to the depths with which our eyes could appreciate the columns of jellyfish several feet below and on up to the surface. Erika scooped one with a net so we could touch if we liked. She explained they do sting, but their nematocysts are imperceptible to humans, though she advised don't rub your eyes!
We did catch up to a second momma and calf pair, but they weren't nearly as active as the first. We only stayed to observe for about 20 minutes before heading back to the landing. The famous San Francisco fog from the north was beginning to roll in here and there and the captain thought it prudent to head back to shore. It had been quite the afternoon!
Back at the hotel and all cleaned up, Preston and I decided dinner would be of the fancier fare at the Mission Ranch, a hotel restaurant combination owned by Clint Eastwood about a mile away. I had heard rave reviews about the food and the outdoor patio seating overlooking the oceanside sheep pasture. The fog had other plans. It had thickened considerably by dinner time, so the view was mainly sleepy sheep huddled in a heap for warmth. The service and the food were outstanding, however. Preston had scampi over freshly made linguini. I opted for seared scallops over mushroom and spinach risotto. We paired them with a Pinot Grigio from Australia. Yum! We dined at 5:30 with the intention of saving time to watch the oceanside sunset we had missed the day before. Our final night in California. It was all or nothing. And yet, throughout dinner and on the drive back to the hotel the fog settled heavily. I was disappointed, but resigned nonetheless to make the best of it.
Preston, his belly full of pasta and feeling a little under the weather himself after hours on the boat, crashed in bed earlier than usual. I wasn't tired just yet, so I made a cup of decaf and moseyed outside to enjoy some fresh air on the hotel patio while we still had some daylight. I sat, sipped, and looked up. Lo and behold, there was a bright blue patch of sky peeking through the fog. I stood and walked in it's direction to the other side of the building. It was sunny over there! And as luck would have it, the breeze was moving those clouds slowly and surely away from the shore. Sunset was going to happen after all.
Popping back into the hotel room to grab my sandals, Preston was snoring. But it was okay. Totally okay. I grabbed my cell phone for photos and quickly walked to the beach to stand atop the main dune at the end of Ocean Avenue. And y'all...what I found was nothing short of a miracle! At least it was in my book. So humor me.
The sun was above the horizon, poised for the glorious descent it would soon make, and there...just 20 feet to my left and also facing the ocean was a lone man, in full kilt regalia, who began to play his bagpipe. What are the odds? Of all the beaches on the west coast, during the only Pacific Ocean sunset that I would witness, after waiting 53 years of my life, I was standing on the one where a concert like no other was about to take place. It was below 60 degrees outside. Few other folks were out on that Wednesday eve. But, but bless that bagpiper. He didn't flinch or stop until the last rays had sunk beneath the horizon.
And the soundtrack of my life came from that instrument.
First he played Here Comes the Sun. Then Amazing Grace and Beethoven's Ode to Joy (our wedding recessional). Finally, America the Beautiful (video linked beneath last photo of this entry). I sang the lyrics in my head and in my heart, and though I probably looked like a crazy person, I stood there by myself, facing the sun, tears rolling off my cheeks and just letting them flow. How did he know? "From sea to shining sea" indeed. I can't explain the how or the why or the coincidence or the magic behind any of this. I just know the universe was giving itself over to me in those moments and with reverential gratitude, I accepted the gift.
Link to America the Beautiful, a minute and a half in length
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ULTL5Ugl7jZXGBcfmcd-Q5yzcK2P0B_F/view?usp=sharing
Yosemite National Park
June 22, 2022 - Reading time: 19 minutes
Preston and I left Vegas in the midmorning and experienced delightfully little highway traffic on the 7 hour journey to our destination in California. Along the drive, it was interesting to watch the desert terrain change quite dramatically to golden rolling hills. As we neared the quaint little mountain town of Oakhurst, the elevation climbed considerably just outside of Yosemite National Park. The cabin rental in Oakhurst was well marked, and we found it to be as clean and cozy as they come. Our first sight upon opening the front door was a personalized welcome message on a small chalkboard next to a generous basket of assorted packaged trail snacks and a fresh bag of Starbucks coffee. If you ever need a rental in that neck of the woods, I highly recommend the Cat Nap Inn on VRBO. The host placed thoughtful touches everywhere, including the extensively furnished backyard patio area, with hummingbird feeders, seed feeders, a birdbath and a small landscaped pond. The view of the trees on the mountainside was lovely at dawn and dusk (we were away in Yosemite during the bulk of daylight). Preston snapped some great photos of wildlife right on the patio, which I'll discus more in moment. What a treat!
Yosemite Day One: We left about 6:15 in the morning, arriving 45 minutes later at the south entrance to Yosemite near Mariposa Grove. Moments later, we had hopped aboard the free NPS shuttle to the Big Trees Loop trailhead. There were few other early risers on the trail with us. It was a cool, clear morning...beautiful weather for beholding the Giant Sequoias. These ancient trees are so enormous that it's nearly impossible to fit them into photos, but we did our best, posing in front of the uprooted Fallen Monarch, the spectacular Grizzly Giant, and the California Tunnel Tree. It was the loveliest of mornings.
Driving a few miles deeper into the park, we stopped at the historic Wawona area. A very kind park ranger beneath an information tent provided us with highlighted maps of day hikes and tips on the best places to find parking and light bites. We did not explore the Wawona Lodge, but ventured behind the property through the covered bridge to a work shed where two blacksmiths had just begun a demonstration. It was fascinating to watch these ladies at work! The small crowd of onlookers were rapt as they explained the process and forged a 4 inch sword in the fire right before our eyes. From the selection of sale items cutely displayed on a nearby tree stump, Preston purchased a forged "S" curved bottle opener as a souvenir. Afterwards, we relaxed in a pair of Adirondack chairs on the front porch of the Wawona General Store with a cold cut sandwich for lunch.
Our last goal of the day was to drive into Yosemite Valley and scope out the Yosemite Lodge, the rendezvous spot for a guided tour we had reserved for the next day. This area of the park is very large and very crowded during the summer months. We wanted to be sure where to go. It was an additional 45 minute drive into the main valley, with curving roads the entire way. Up and over. Up, down, around. Again and again and again. But the payoff was sweeping valley views and mountain cliffs to our left. I focused on the tricky roadwork while Preston "oohed and aahed" at the absolutely breathtaking scenery that awaited us around each curve. He was itching to get out and shoot photos. And then, suddenly, without warning, we crested a ridge and BAM! I shouted at the surprise, "Half Dome!" It took our breath away. A few more twists and turns in the road and we were smack dab in the crowd of fellow travelers in a famous turn out parking area known as Tunnel View. All were in awe of the valley trifecta of El Capitan, Half Dome, and Yosemite Falls lined up side by side by side at this location. The massive granite walls, towering above verdant evergreens of that resplendent valley, set against a perfectly blue sky, were purely majestic. Iconic. Like a postcard. Once again, I knew photos wouldn't do them justice. We hung out at Tunnel View for a good while before moving along to Yosemite Valley. We located the lodge for tomorrow's tour, parked the car and took a shuttle ride to get better acquainted with all the points of interest that abound in Yosemite Valley.
Our stomachs growled on the way back to Oakhurst late that afternoon. Preston suggested take out Indian food from a place he had discovered with great online reviews. Now, full disclosure, I had only tried Indian cuisine once, many years ago, and was not sure I cared for the flavor. However, I am a girl who likes to practice what I preach and I often tell my young students back home not to give up on trying new foods, especially because one's taste buds can evolve with age. Y'all...it was delicious!! With just the right amount of spice. We finished dinner, grabbed a glass of wine and went to open the sliding glass door of the cottage for an after dinner sit on the patio. This would be the first visit by our doe friend. Preston took several photos as she drank from the bird bath and then sauntered into the wooded thickness beyond the backyard. We sat in silence hoping she might return. In the glow of the setting sun, Preston captured a humming bird and a California Quail with his fancy camera. It was great fun for this momma to watch him study and move and stoop to achieve a good angle with the best lighting. His photos are exquisite compared to my cell phone shots. It was a fantastic and fulfilling first day!
Yosemite Day Two: Today we decided to hike the meadow and lake areas of the lower Yosemite Valley before the guided tour scheduled for 2:00 p.m. We parked and rode the shuttle to the trailhead of Mirror Lake. It's a two-mile, moderately easy path with a slight elevation change. There were a few rocky spots to navigate, but nothing too treacherous if wearing good hiking shoes and being intentional with one's footing. The lake itself was smaller than I had imagined, but the area itself is larger, ringed by a good bit of sandy beach spaces and reedy green grasses that are most certainly covered in water during the wettest times in the park. The 360 degree view of the cathedral-like mountains that surround the lake found me planting my feet to just gaze upward and take it all in.
Our morning hike complete, we lunched on grilled chicken pesto sandwiches in the cafe next to the Yosemite Lodge before boarding the open-air guided Yosemite Valley tour. This would be a highlight of our visit to the park. The park ranger was very personable and provided a wonderful overview of the park's history, it's native peoples, the geology of the region, and a brief lecture on Rock Climbing 101. We were also very, very lucky. As the tour tram stopped in front of El Capitan, we could make out a rock climber in the distance about 1/4 of the way up the huge slab. He looked like a little blue dot, but that dot was definitely moving. With his telephoto lens, Preston captured some great shots which allowed us to zoom in and better appreciate this incredible undertaking of human strength and perseverance. (The original photo and zoomed in shot are below). We learned the ropes and gear used by most climbers can weigh from 50 to 100 lbs. Also, after a successful 3000 foot ascent to the top of El Cap, the only way back is a 12 mile hike down the other side, carrying all that gear. Yikes! Definitely not an adventure for the faint of heart.
Exiting the park on the late afternoon drive back to Oakhurst was bittersweet. I found myself wondering if I'd ever again make it this far to this area of the world. I completely appreciate now how John Muir was smitten with it's wonders and compelled to convince presidents to preserve it's beauty. Oh, and we did have a lucky bit of fortune in the photo department on the drive out: Preston just happened to turn and look over his shoulder for one last glance of the Tunnel View and noticed the afternoon sunlight was creating a prism effect on Yosemite Falls. Yes, it had turned into a beautiful liquid rainbow. We had to pull over just one last time and it truly is a great photo in my opinion.
The following morning, we left our cabin in Oakhurst to head for the California coast. But not before one last visit by our doe friend who showed up while I was quietly sipping coffee on the patio. I couldn't believe that she just walked up with me sitting only 8 feet away. (If you look at the foreground of the photo below, you can see the top of my socked foot on the outdoor ottoman - that's how close she was!) I stayed stock still, only moving verrry slowly to snap a few photos with my cell phone. She took her time. I simply sat. Kept my head and heart in the moment, thankful for the small silent "little whiles" that life affords us if we just stop long enough and allow them to be.
Vegas, Baby!!
June 20, 2022 - Reading time: 13 minutes
We drove three hours from the Grand Canyon to the Hoover Dam Visitor’s Center, conveniently located on the way to Las Vegas. The guided tour was phenomenal and lasted just under an hour. As we paid for tickets, we were asked if we were claustrophobic. That question gave me pause, but I denied my fear and shook my head "no." They took us down an elevator to an interior tunnel carved into one side of the mountain. The tour guide assured us the water on the exposed rock walls was from natural springs below and that the dam was not, in fact, leaking. Then she said quite seriously, “We actually don’t use the “L” word here." Indeed. The tunnel ended with a viewing area overlooking the enormous turbines which produce electricity for a sizeable area of the Southwest. A crew had a cap removed from one of the turbines, performing maintenance on one of the gigantic rotors. The components were massive. James loved it! Hoover Dam has always been on his bucket list. We lingered a bit in the museum, learning the history and statics of the dam's construction. But, the best was saved for last, of course: the walk outside across the enormous structure that holds back the Colorado River on one side to form the green-blue Lake Mead on the other. What a treat to peer over the 726 foot walls on both sides while standing on atop 4.4 million cubic yards of concrete! The recently constructed bridge on the Interstate overlooking the dam is a beauty, too. Oh, the things we humans can accomplish if we work together!
30 miles later we were in Vegas! We booked the MGM Grand, top floor, king suite with a view of the strip. Go big or go home, right? It was very roomy and very cool. The temperature outside was over 100 again so we took a quick dip in one of the compound's many pools and then hit the strip as the sun was setting. My first impression of Vegas is this: It's like Times Square on steroids, only more glitzy (if that's possible) and with waaaaaaay more gambling and booze.
Over the course of three nights we took in the Bellagio Fountain show several times. Never saw a repeat. Each was spectacular, but my favorite was the one featuring "Fly Me to the Moon" by Sinatra. So Vegas. The interior of Bellagio is also a feast for the senses. It opens with colorful ceiling collage which leads to an adjacent rainforest atrium. We took photos of so many things!
To beat the heat, wandering through nearby properties became our habit each night. Caesar's Palace is enormous. Our first official meal was dinner at the Trevi Fountain, a replica of the one in Rome, of course. James had the Steak Tagliata and I had Veal Piccata with a white wine sauce over wilted spinach, roasted artichokes, and tomatoes. Paired with a glass of Chianti from Tuscany, it was divine.
Day Two of Vegas found us camping by the pool, taking advantage of poolside waitress service. We treated ourselves to lunch in our lounge chairs. I had a pina coloda for the first time in years. It was a well deserved day of relaxation after two days of nearly constant walking and a great recharge for our sore muscles and aching feet. We may have also imbibed in a bucket of beer ( maybe two?). Who knows? What happens in Vegas stays here, right? We had grand plans to scope out a party club that second night, but sleep and recovery with room service was on the menu. By the next morning I was a total believer in the efficacy of hotel blackout shades. And that’s all I have to say about that.
On Vegas Day Three we rode the monorail several blocks to the Venetian. We didn't take a gondola, but enjoyed watching three of the gondoliers perform their vocal Italian song warm up near the ticket booth in preparation to serenade their passengers. They sounded great! Inside, the ceiling of The Venetian is the visual star of the show. The Italian fresco replicas are so beautiful and photos won't do it justice. My neck was sore afterwards from craning to look up.
Next, we crossed the strip to The Cosmopolitan and stopped by Secret Pizza for lunch. It's an unmarked, unadvertised little hole in the wall that was put on my radar by a dear friend back home. I won’t say much more about the location because it’s, well, a secret! A delicious secret. We had more pie than we could eat and James noticed a diagram on the side of the box. Y’all…it was an origami pizza box. He followed the directions and folded a huge pizza box into a “just the right size for three left over pieces” box. Pizza and a puzzle. What a lunch!
Late that afternoon, Preston flew in. We made dinner reservations months in advance for this special evening where the three of us would get to dine together before James left for home. And let me tell ya, SkyBar on the 23rd floor of the Waldorf Astoria is as chic and sophisticated an establishment as they come. The view is phenomenal and the service, wine and food were outstanding. We shared a bottle Napa Valley Cabernet, two chef-prepared sushi rolls, a three-tiered tray of charcuterie and a basket of duck fat fries. The timing was perfect, too because we were seated at the large picture windows at sunset which allowed us to watch the lights of the Vegas Strip come alive. It was Preston's first view of that captivating display. We walked off dinner, strolling again through the Cosmopolitan to marvel at it's impossibly grand chandelier and to the Bellagio's fountains, enjoying two back to back shows with Preston. James had to catch his plane to SC early the next morning, so we headed back to MGM. Preston and I did a walk about of casino tables and truly had the best time losing $63 at the roulette wheel. Easy come, easy go. And, after all, like my PE coach used to say, “If you had fun, you won!”
Grand Canyon Day
June 17, 2022 - Reading time: 10 minutes
I woke up at 4:30 this morning, too excited to fall back asleep. Breakfast at the hotel didn’t begin until 6:30. We were first in line to grab eggs and pancakes and then we were off!
We arrived at the National Park entrance before 8:00 with only 2 cars ahead of us. There are several parking areas near the visitor’s center, so we opted for the exact spot as the night before so we’d remember where we were, knowing the lots would fill up by day’s end. Our goal was to hike the South Rim Trail, a 2.5 mile, mostly paved and flat path with several lookout spots. It begins at Mather’s Point, which allowed us to see how different the same area of canyon looked in the full daylight versus the evening before. 
We completed the trail in a few hours time, stopping at each lookout along the way. We were surprised by all the pine and Juniper trees along the path as we both had preconceived notions about The Grand Canyon opening up along the edge of a barren, desert-like terrain. This was not the case. We spied spotted squirrels, ravens and giant California Condors. What a place for them to call home!
With noon approaching, we sat on a shaded bench to enjoy a protein bar and several swigs of our water bottles. The temperature was climbing with us, so we were happy to complete the next section of canyon aboard the free, air conditioned shuttle bus system. This section stretched an additional 14 miles to a place called Hermit’s Rest. There were seven stops along the way and we disembarked at them all.
One of the busiest was Grand Canyon Village, consisting of a few hotels, restaurants and gift shops. We popped into most of them to look around, with the most iconic being The Hopi House, designed in 1905 by renowned architect Mary Colter as a nod to the Hopi natives whose history in the region dates back thousands of years. Their pottery work is nearly as impressive as the canyon with incredible hand sculpted and hand painted details. 
A few hours later, we had hopped on and off the shuttle buses at each and every lookout point along the trail to Hermit’s Rest. All of the views were stunning. Earlier in the morning, James and I noticed a group of hikers descending The Bright Angel Trail to the bottom of the canyon. They were the size of ants in the distance, but from our view point atop we could also easily discern the trail of switchbacks. It’s 8 miles long with an elevation change of 4380 feet. The trail looked reassuringly wider than I expected, but the thought of a return trip back up already had me tuckered out. The Park Service advises that no one should expect or attempt to go round trip in one day.
Speaking of the Park Service, I can’t say enough about how well marked and well kept they have maintained this natural wonder. In 9 hours time we had explored just under 20 miles of trail (a fraction of the canyon’s 227), encountering the most friendly people from park rangers, to ice cream salesmen, to the crew of retired shuttle bus drivers who informed us of historic landmarks and kept the dad jokes flowing throughout the afternoon.
It’s cliche, but true however: photos, paintings, videos…none of the above can do justice to the experience of being there, immersed in the presence of billions of years of rock layers and hearing the wind whooshing through the walls and flora. Two applications of sunscreen and several water bottle refills later we were wiped, but in the best possible manner. We drove away from the parking lot full of fresh air, sunshine and the wonder of what millions of years had accomplished at a magical place on planet Earth. 
We returned to the hotel sun-swept and tired, but also hungry! Turns out the little town of Williams, Arizona, smack dab on Rte. 66, has some cozy local places to grab a bite. A few wood fired pepperoni pizza slices and a glass of white wine later, consumed on an outdoor patio in the coolness of the early evening off Main Street, was just the ticket to top off one of the most memorable days of our lives. 